Haramosh

Hermosh Peak, also known as Peak 58, is a prominent mountain in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. Its elevation is often cited as 7,409 meters. Situated south of the Rakaposhi-Hermosh mountainous region, a smaller section of the Karakoram range, Hermosh stands approximately 40 miles east of Gilgit. It rises dramatically from the northern bank of the Indus River, near its confluence with the Gilgit River. Notable peaks in the Hermosh massif include Hermosh Choti and Hermosh Katwal Laila Choti. Early attempts to conquer Hermosh began in 1947 with a Swiss team. In 1955, a German expedition explored the northeast ridge. A British team from Oxford University, consisting of Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Glott, and Rawlence Colber, faced numerous challenges and setbacks in 1957. Their expedition resulted in the tragic deaths of Glott and Colber, while Streather and Emery survived, though Emery suffered severe frostbite, losing all his fingers and toes. Ralph Barker's book, Blue Mountain, recounts this harrowing experience. The first successful ascent of Hermosh was achieved on August 4, 1958, by three Austrian climbers: Henrik Roice, Stephen Pauer, and Frances Mandl. They reached the summit via Herm La (northeast of Zencha) and the East Ridge, following a route similar to the one attempted in 1957. According to the Himalayan Index, only three other successful climbs have been recorded: a Japanese ascent via the Western Ridge in 1978, an ascent by an unknown group via an unknown route in 1979, and a Polish ascent via the southwest face in 1988.